As could possibly be expected coming from a former child star, justin bieber clothing has experienced many a fashion transformation throughout the years. He’s done quiffed hair as well as a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented with a floppy fringe and a suit. But even though some of his tries to toughen up have been met with derision, the latest part in the Biebvolution is in fact bang in the fashion money. We have seen ripped jeans. There have been oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts using the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, we have seen plenty of layering – and plenty of raw edges.
Not every person gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s response to his Marques’Almeida moment with the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) but the latest incarnation of Bieber ties into a mood that is certainly sweeping through menswear – and may even be arriving in your own wardrobe soon.
Simply speaking: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy is out. Deliberately undone and messy is within. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge by using a tracksuit top and a pierced ear thrown set for good measure. You might dub it a hot mess for males, but the thing you might never consider it is hipster – manicured beards needs to be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber clothing wore to the teen awards, has become integral towards the increase in interest in denim and of jeans which can be hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the sort of look which enables parents eyeroll and say: “You paid for that? Do want me to put proper hems on those?”, this has legs. Elsewhere about the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent out herringbone trousers that were roughly shut down on the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a kind of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing occurring; in close proximity, the holes in these knits are layered over a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a kind of anti-luxury luxury – is there in the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy is definitely the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a superb reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, one of the more in-demand photographers in fashion, these pictures possess a typical masculine rawness. Inside a short video to accompany this shoot, you can even see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories to the latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile could this be Man?, whilst the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The latter sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a few days worth of facial hair.
Haute scruff had also been across one of the most talked-about moments of the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, that was kept in a Chinese restaurant variously referred to as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that were all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like that they had just rolled out of bed. A lot of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, like the parcel delivery service); the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a activate the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots plus a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence in fashion is merely set to keep: right after the show, certainly one of Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, ended up being to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is an additional of your buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label has been backed by Comme des Garçons. His clothes seem like a nerdy carry out Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, however, not.
In fact, if everything else fails, the true secret to this look is actually a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for males. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for ladies (see British Vogue’s December issue, through which several tracktops are featured within the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all somewhat Damon Albarn circa 1996. Why does this humble zip-up sum up this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, as it ticks the 1990s box – and also the dexqpkyy16 is now the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the exact opposite of all of the justin bieber t shirt which has been the headline news in menswear in the past few years. And then finally, it’s simple to chuck on, doesn’t appear to be you’ve made an effort but suggests you are aware of what’s happening. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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